Korean Interlude

   I just watched a History Channel documentary about the Trans-Siberian Express. I downloaded it from eztv.it. It was fascinating to see the photos from the history of its building as well as contemporary shots that reminded me of my trip.

The next columns will be about my travels in Poland, but I'm not sure as to the schedule, as I go back to school next week. I'm looking forward to getting back to class after a summer of boredom.

I did get a lot of TV in.

 

World Adventurer (December 19, 2003 Chautauqua)

 

   As my plane took off from Moscow's Sheretmetyevo Airport en route to Krakow, Poland, I reflected on how far I had come on my journey. I had left Korea by ferry, rode the rails in Japan, crossed the East Sea once again by ferry, and travelled the Trans-Siberian Express across the continent of Asia, from one end of Russia to the other.

   Since that time, I have returned to the starting point, and am once again teaching English to little monsters... er, adorable Korean children.

   In the months before I left Korea in the spring, a crisis had blown up over the revelation that North Korea had re-started its nuclear program, and was threatening the world with missiles equipped with atomic warheads.

   In this corner of the world, several important nations border the Korean peninsula. To the north lies Russia's Far Eastern provinces. To the west looms not-so-Communist-anymore China. To the east are the islands of Japan. All of these countries are attempting to bring North Korea to the bargaining table, but the North (and its erratic leader, Kim Jong-Il) are pursuing negotiations with the one country that matters to them: the United States. The North's most pressing demand is for a non-aggression treaty that will guarantee their freedom from invasion.

   The Americans (and their even more erratic leader, George W. Bush) are pre-occupied with the Middle East, and are not paying enough attention to what is being said.

   The Americans have been a very strong presence here ever since the 1950-53 Korean War. In recent months, they have tried to re-position their forces so that more will be available for duties in Iraq. The main U.S. base in the capital of Seoul is in the process of being re-located south of the city, as are some of the units that patrol the de-militarized zone.

   The relations between South Korea and the U.S. have been strained of late over these preparations, and anti-American sentiment has been building ever since two Korean girls were killed by an American tank last year. Things were not improved when a G.I., allegedly driving under the influence, was involved in a hit-and-run that left a Korean woman dead.

   Also weighing heavily on the relations between the two countries is the American request for Korean combat troops to assume duties in Iraq. The government has been attempting to come up with a response to this request with little success.

   All of Korea, including the government, have been caught up in a scandal involving illicit campaign funds being paid to both parties during last year's presidential election. The loser in that election, Lee Hoi-chang, recently returned from a holiday in the U.S. and said he was "shocked, shocked" that the president would be involved in something like this.  It was ironic that he himself was under investigation not more than a week later.

   When I first came to Korea, I was told that this is how they do business here, and that they are all corrupt: government, businessmen, everybody. Well, the man that told me that was an idiot, but it is still very distressing to wake up to a new set of charges seemingly every day now.  There used to appear occasionally in the paper a section called "Scandal Round-Up." That headline is not so funny to me as it used to be.

   Life is pretty good for me in Korea at this time, I must say.  I have a nice place to live. I am making a decent wage, and managing to save a little. The kids that I teach can be a handful at times, but I like them, and I think they like me.  The weather here has been pretty good, for the most part. Living close to the sea has its advantages, not the least of which is the ability to just sit and watch the waves.

   And Christmas is coming! There is a lot more "Christmas-y" stuff in evidence this year here than formerly. Mostly it's Santas and trees, but it just makes me miss being home all the more. I hope all my friends, family, and readers in Alberta have a happy holiday season.

   There are many other things going on in Korea at this time, not all of them as dire as the headlines.   I will tell you about them soon, including my own personal experiences at a Korean wedding.

   Next time, however, I will pick up the threads of my ongoing story as I land in the ancient, former capital of Poland: Krakow.