Krakow is in the southern part of the country. If you travel even further south, you come to the small town of Zakopane, which is a "gateway" of sorts to the Tatras Mountains.
The Tatras are the highest in all the Carpathian range of mountains, and Zakopane reminds me somewhat of Banff, as it's principal attraction (in winter) is skiing. It has put its name into consideration for hosting the Olympic Winter Games many times.
We took the bus from Krakow to Zakopane, and then a smaller tourist bus up into the mountains. From a tourist lodge, we hiked up further still. The day was beautiful, but it grew colder the higher the elevation became. The "hiking trail" was actually an asphalt road winding up between tall fir trees, with rocky snow-capped mountains rearing up behind.
Our destination was a still iced-over lake called "Morskie Oko," or the "Eye of the Moon."
There is a lodge, but we had sandwiches on the lakeshore, before continuing to go all the way around.
There was still quite a bit of snow on the ground, and streams of icy water rushing into the lake.
On the far side of the lake, the trail continued on and up over the mountains into Czechoslovakia. A cell phone didn't place us in Poland any longer, we were so close. We climbed up a difficult, snow and ice covered trail to yet another lake, the name of which escapes me.
It was a physical, though thoroughly enjoying day.
The following week, John and I (Ali had to work) took an overnight trip to the other end of the country, to Gdansk on the Baltic Sea. Gdansk is a city that has over 1000 years of history behind it. As a seaport it has a large strategic importance, and has been fought over many times. Much of the city was destroyed during World War II, but it has been lovingly recreated, so that tourists can see the delightful examples of its architecture.
The central train station in Gdansk
The gates of the old city walls have been restored, and there is a marvelous Maritime Museum that sprawls over many sites.
The museum includes an old crane, which was used to load and unload ships as well as aid in the installation of masts.
From the outside, it looks like a fairly nondescript building overhanging the waterfront. Inside, you can see the great wheels that are used during the crane's operation.
The museum also features an old freighter, with displays of various kinds of shipping inside. The museum features a history of the town as it pertains to its maritime importance. Very interesting.
Down the river, at its emergence into the Baltic Sea,
is the Westerplatte.
This is where some of the first shots of World War II were fired. Gdansk had formerly been a part of Germany (it was called Danzig then) and it became a free city after World War I. Its return to Germany was one of the demands that Hitler made to Poland, and the excuse he needed to declare war.
The Polish Army had a base there, near the mouth of the river. In the days leading up to the outbreak of hostilities, the Germans sent an old warship to Danzig as part of a "training exercise." On the morning of September 1st, this ship opened fire on the Poles at point blank range. There is a building left standing from that time, testifying to the damage wrought. Soldiers hidden inside the warship swarmed ashore, and the city was in German hands before the day was out. It wasn't long before Hitler himself made a triumphal entry.
Memorial column marking the spot where World War II began
I reflected that the previous December, in Hawaii, I had toured the Battleship Missouri, where the Japanese surrender was signed. I had now been where the war began, as well as where it ended. The historian in me rejoiced.
On our way back from Gdansk, John and I stopped at Malbork Castle.
This was the former seat of the Tuetonic Knights after they moved from Venice. It is the largest gothic fortress in existence. Much of it has been rebuilt after the damage inflicted by the Red Army in World War II. Repairs are still ongoing, but it is a beautiful site.
A lot of the structures have been made from red bricks,
causing some wits to call it "the largest heap of bricks north of the Alps."
The view of the surrounding countryside from the tallest tower is excellent, as is an overview of the three main courtyards of the castle.
There are extensive rooms full of examples of medieval furnishings,
and an idea of what life was like during those times. There is also a museum on site dedicated to amber, a big industry in the area. Jewelry made from this is on display (and also for sale).
One of the main features of the castle is a view of one of the first examples of central heating in Europe. Fires were built in chambers beneath the castle, and the warm air traveled through ducts into the upper rooms. Ingenious.
In my next story I will conclude the story of my adventures in Poland with a description of my visit to the concentration camp, Auschwitz.
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